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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.